Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Escape to St. Croix

Hubby and I just spent a glorious week in St. Croix, US Virgin Islands. It was our first time there and the purpose of the trip was to spend some quality bonding time with a sister my husband never knew he had and vice versa. Its a long story that reads like a Lifetime TV Novella but suffice it to say that sometimes life can deal you a twist of fate that turns out to be the most lovely surprise. We had a terrific time and I would like to share with you some of the restaurants and attractions we visited in case you have an opportunity to go there. Our new sister was a fabulous guide since she was raised there and could give us the perspective of a local.
La Reine Chicken Shack - 24-1 Estate Slob, Kingshill, USVI, St. Croix, +1 340-778-5717
This was probably our favorite meal of the week in an open air restaurant that started as a shack some years ago but has grown steadily in response to the hordes of people lining up for the most delicious chicken you'll ever eat. Order, take a number and then pick up your styrofoam box and head to one of the family style picnic benches. Reasonably priced large portions, all finger licking good. Don't forget the plantains, the perfect side dish that for me reads almost like a dessert. Que rico.
Coconuts On The Beach - 72 LaGrange, Frederiksted, St. Croix, USVI +1 340-719-6060
After a day at Dorsch Beach, Frederiksted with our new found family, we were tired and hungry and full of sand and grit and too much sun. I've discovered that I'm too old to lug beach chairs and tote bags around - where's a cabana boy when you need him?! We drove for miles looking for a place still serving food. It was a hot summer Sunday night and there were swarms of young clubbers milling around in front of the clubs and spilling out onto the road making it hard for us to pass. Did I mention that most of the island's roads are small and winding and they drive on the left (wrong) side of the street? A little stressful but sis was a great driver and got us through the week without incident. Finally we found a quiet spot called Coconuts and our party of 9 was greeted with some surprise by a very cute friendly bartender/manager named Jameison, originally from Philadelphia who had been living in St. Croix for a few years, just chillin' out. It was late and he was having a slow night till we dragged ourselves in. We ordered our food and settled in for a long wait - that's island life - take it slow. In fact here's the island motto.
We amused ourselves with the kitchy decor and the mysterious night view of the surf.
When dinner finally arrived it was all quite delicious. My fish tacos were tasty. Hubby got the ribs and they were tender and juicy. Of course by this time of night as tired as we were, probably anything would have tasted good to us. Tonight's rum concoction was called The Pain Killer, rich and coco-nutty with a sprinkle of nutmeg. Thanks Jameison!
The Palms at Pelican Cove - 4126 La Grande Princesse, Christiansted, VI 00820 800-548-4460
Since our rented condo was right next to the Pelican Cove resort, we took quite a few meals there including breakfast, lunch and one night their buffet dinner which included a show that featured Moko Jambi stilt walkers performing poolside in a reenactment of the folkloric Moko Jambi who used their height and masks to scare away evil spirits. They were delightful and I actually danced under the stilts of one of them. Then came Kiki and the Flaming Gypsies, a group of lovely young women practiced in the art of dancing with fire. Their act was a nod to the fabled Queen slave who led rebelling slaves to set their masters' plantations on fire.
The buffet included ribs, fried chicken, creole fish and a wide variety of sides. It was good but not great but made better by a couple of rum drinks. For $30 it was a great value and we actually enjoyed an additional discount once the waiter learned that he and sis had graduated from the same school. St. Croix is a very small island....only 22 miles long and about 7-8 miles wide...and everyone knows everyone it seems. We were delighted to see our Coconuts friend Jameison there and he greeted us like old friends.
Virgin Kayak Tours of Cane Bay Bryan Updyke, owner
My biggest adventure of the week was first time kayaking at night in the bioluminescent bay at Salt River Bay National Park. It's something I never fathomed doing and yet spurred on by my adventurous sis and bro-in-law I got swept along by their enthusiasm. And I'm so glad I did! Here in clockwise order is me looking over my shoulder as new cousin Medina snaps my photo....then me with Medina after the excursion looking tired but happy....then sis and bro in law Tara and Warren paddling alongside of us....and finally Tara and I listening closely as Owner/Guide Bryan gives us our instructions. Bryan has lived in St. Croix since 1989 and is passionate about its history and conservation and the Taino culture and art. Read more about this very interesting guy on his website.
Bryan led our small group through a winding bumpy road studded with tree roots to a small beach on one side of the lagoon. He was keen on introducing us to his colorful friends. Living in a camp with an elaborate tent system in a clearing under some trees was a group of authentic Taino Indians who welcomed us and shook our hands as we were introduced one by one. A mother and baby, a couple of preteen girls, and a few men with guitars and red stripe beer occupied the camp and they were friendly and easy going people.
Soon we were loaded into the kayaks and I took the front which made me "Captain" in charge of the rudder. Okay, I can do this I told myself. No turning back now. And the truth is I DID IT! It was exciting and thrilling and quite exhausting but I loved it all the same. Several of our group jumped in the water to swim about stirring up the tiny one celled organisms called Dinoflagellates that light up the water when agitated. They call it 'fairy dust' and its the most beautiful thing to see. I passed on the swimming, content to watch the others and swish my hand and foot through the water to make my own little magic fairy dust. We headed back after a couple of hours and seeing the Taino campfire finally appear in the distance like a beacon calling me home was a welcome site as I was pretty much running out of steam by now.
We are left with many fond memories of new discoveries and beautiful warm hearted people and of course our new sister and we look forward to building many more memories to make up for lost time.

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